Starting plants from seeds has advantages over buying cultivars from a store. One packet of seeds will yield hundreds of plants for a fraction of the cost of purchasing transplants and there is a greater variety to choose from as most retail outlets sell a limited selection of plants. Starting seedlings indoors in areas with a short growing season also gives an advantage time-wise.
Check if a plant is a good candidate for starting indoors by looking at the back of the seed packet, or reading a seed catalogue, or a book about growing annuals and perennials.
Seeds should be started approximately six to eight weeks before the final frost date in the hardiness zone in which they will be grown. To find the zone and last frost date in North America try Almanac.com’s US Frost Chart. If looking for a zone in other parts of the world use keywords like ‚”hardiness zone map for Europe” or whichever continent you wish to find.
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Suitable containers come in a variety of shapes and sizes but there are generally two types: individual pots or trays that hold many seedlings. When growing many different kinds of plants, they might be easier to keep track of in individual pots. Consider using yogurt containers or milk cartons. Almost any container will do as long as there is a drainage hole in the bottom.
Some gardeners like potting soil, others like mixes created specifically for starting seeds. Whatever the preference, it is best to start with a commercially prepared medium that is sterilized and has been mixed with materials such as peat-moss or vermiculite that will hold the moisture while still allowing excess water to drain.
Seedlings need sufficient light and the correct temperature if they are to thrive. Indoor temperatures of 16¬∞ to 24¬∞C (60¬∞ to 75¬∞F) are acceptable. Correct lighting can be difficult to find. A sunroom or south-facing window will provide adequate lighting, but if that isn’t possible, set up a light system. Garden centres sell lighting for growing plants indoors, but ordinary fluorescent lights (1.2 m or 4 ft.) will do just as well.
Put the growing medium in a bucket and begin mixing in water one or two cups at a time. The mix is ready when it feels moist but not saturated. If water runs out when the mix is squeezed, it’s too wet so add more medium. Once it is ready, put it in the containers. Fill to about .5 cm (1/2 inch) from the top, then tap the container a couple of times to settle the mix, but don’t pack it down.
When sowing small seeds make shallow rows with a screwdriver or pencil and sow the seeds evenly in the rows. If the seeds are large, make holes with the pencil about 2 cm (approx. 1 in.) apart and place a seed in each hole. Fine seeds do not need to be covered with soil. Gently push them into the soil with the flat side of a spoon. Cover larger seeds with some of the dry growing medium. Spray rather than pour water on, to moisten the soil. Reduce the need for constant watering by covering the container with plastic wrap, glass, plastic bags or lids. Remove any coverings as soon as sprouts appear.
Once the seeds have sprouted, make sure they are getting full light. If using lights, they should be approximately 10 cm (4 inches) above the pots. Lights should be kept on 14 – 16 hours a day. Raise the lights as the seedlings grow.
Water the seedlings every few days to keep the soil moist. Place the pots in a tray of water and allow the water to absorb. Drain any water that has not absorbed within a couple of hours. Be careful if watering from the top. A fine mist sprayer is gentler on delicate seedlings and roots than pouring water directly on them.
Seeds usually begin sprouting within a few days of sowing. When the basic needs of water and light are met, healthy and strong seedlings will be ready, in time, for transplanting to the garden.
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