Planting and Caring for Trees

Understanding a tree’s basic biology is essential to a healthy tree. Ideally a native tree will be chosen for planting. One adapted for the climatic conditions (temperature and moisture levels) and soil type for its area will do much better than one which is not. Trees intake nutrients in two ways: from the soil via their roots, which requires nitrogen-fixing bacteria and thus healthy soil; and the atmosphere via stomata, tiny pores on the undersides of their leaves, by a process called photosynthesis. Without adequate water and sunlight photosynthesis cannot proceed. Therefore, the location of the tree (sun or shade) is critical, another reason to understand the biology of the chosen species.

Where to Plant a Tree

Again, here is where understanding the tree’s biology will be handy. Evaluate the chosen species’ requirements, and evaluate possible sites for one that will meet those requirements. Consider factors such as sun versus shade, pH of the soil, soil drainage qualities, and moisture levels. Also consider how large the tree will become, and if the site is adequate to accommodate this size of a tree. Be aware of underground utility lines, and if unsure call to locate them before digging.

Trees can increase the value of one’s home, and lower energy bills. Strategically placed shade trees on the east and west side of the house block the sun, lowering cooling expenses. Planting evergreens close together to create a wall a distance of one to two tree heights from the house create a windbreak, lowering heating bills.

How to Plant a Tree

Planting a tree is a two person job. It is essential to preserve an in-tact root system. Make sure to carry the tree by the root ball to prevent damage, and keep the tree’s roots damp until it is planted. Dig a hole at least twice the width of the root ball, but the wider the better. When digging the hole, lay the removed dirt out on a tarp or plastic sheeting. Dig the hole twice as deep as the root ball as well, and loosen the soil within the bottom and sides of the hole.

Soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour before planting. Loosen pot bound roots so that they are not tightly balled up. Make sure that the top of the root ball will be even with ground level; add some of the soil back if need be to accomplish this. Place the tree in the hole, and spread the roots out in fan fashion; they should not be bent upwards against the sides of the hole. Be sure the tree is set so that it is perpendicular with the ground. Support the tree while backfilling the hole with the removed soil. Lightly pack the soil at the surface, and fill the hole with water, which will settle the soil around the root system. If planted in a windy area, the tree will need to be staked; these can be removed after three years.

If the tree is not equipped with an automatic watering system, it may be a good idea to encircle the hole with a three to four inch high berm, which will collect water, and add three to four inches of mulch which will retain moisture. Make sure the mulch is not touching the trunk of the tree. Do not prune the tree after planting or fertilize it at this time.

When to Plant a Tree

Deciduous trees fare best if planted in late fall, before the ground freezes, and early spring, after the frost leaves. Evergreen trees are best planted in the fall.

Tree Care

A tree may experience transplant shock, and will need two to three years of attention before it becomes established. A thorough weekly soaking is ideal, watering the tree slowly and deeply; do this as opposed to frequent shallow waterings, which will encourage a shallow root system. Aim for watering five gallons over a thirty minute time span. Well-draining soils will need more frequent watering, and clay soils less frequent. In hot weather the tree will need more frequent waterings as well, but watering can be reduced as the weather cools and possibly eliminated in winter (although during winter warm spells watering may be necessary, and evergreens need watering year-round). An easy way to determine if the tree needs watering is to check the top six inches of soil around the tree; if it is dry, it needs to be watered.

Depending on soil condition, the tree may or may not need fertilizing. Organic fertilizers are recommended by the Arbor Day Foundation. However, if fertilizer is to be applied, it should not be until after the tree has settled for a season.

Pruning Shade Trees

Pruning actually injures the tree, making it susceptible to disease and insect attack, so prune carefully and conservatively. Prune when the tree is dormant, in late winter or early spring, and remove only dead or damaged branches, branches competing with the main trunk or growing straight upward parallel with the main trunk, or low-hanging branches. Also remove suckers, weak spindly limbs that often occur near the base of a tree. It is best to keep branches that form ten and two o’clock angles with the main trunk. Use a sharp tool that has been sterilized in a 10% bleach solution, and make a clean cut. For stems, cut at a 45 degree angle just above a bud. For small limbs use lopping shears or pruners. For large limbs, use a saw, and first cut underneath the branch, one foot from where the limb meets a larger branch. Cut one-fourth of the way through the limb. Then make a second cut two to three inches above the first. Start at the top and cut completely through. Finally, cut through the top of the limb where it meets the larger branch, taking care not to allow it to pull bark off of the remaining branch. Never take the top off of a tree or remove more than a quarter of a tree’s crown within one season.

Desired evergreen shapes can be attained by pinching off new growth each spring. Cut just in front of a point where a dominant bud exists.

Orchard Care

Some trees are self-pollinating and require no intervention; others are self-sterile, and need another of the same species within 100 feet (but preferably closer) for fertilization to occur, which is necessary for the tree to bear fruit. Most mature standard fruit trees need a minimum of 25′ x 25′ and grow up to 25 feet tall. Dwarf trees often require 12′ x 12′ and reach over 12′. Apples, pears and sweet cherry trees should be pruned to encourage vertical growth and a strong central trunk, of which the top portion is cut out after the tree begins bearing fruit. Peaches, plums, apricots and sour cherries should be allowed to spread more in the crown with an open center, short main trunk, and several large branches containing the majority of the leaves and fruit.

After planting, remove branches that are damaged, that cross or rub another, or that are less than six inches from another branch. In the first year cut off all unwanted sprouts in late spring, and keep only side branches that grow at wide angles. In the second year, train main side branches to grow outward and a keep a few upright branches. In following years, aim for balance. In order to encourage lateral branching, shorten a branch just above a bud. Remove branches with weak angles by cutting it at the main trunk.

Information taken from Arbor Day Foundation publications.

To use trees to attract wildlife habitat to your yard, see Creating a Backyard Wildlife Habitat.