In the South, bright yellow daffodils are the first genuine sign that Spring has truly arrived. Tiny crocus bulbs will jump the gun and pop out of the garden when snow is still on the ground, but the trumpet of a daffodil sends a clarion call that warmer weather is here to stay.
Daffodils are irresistible, and naturalized daffodils even more so. A casual observer can’t help but notice a hill covered in drifts of butter yellow daffodils or a meadow punctuated with white, orange, peach and cream-colored cups topping slender green stalks. Naturalizing daffodils to add texture and color to wide spaces is both simple and rewarding.
Gardeners love daffodils because they are beautiful and easy. Pop a bulb in the ground in the right spot, and it rewards the effort by requiring little ongoing attention, giving a grand show and multiplying easily for many years. Repellent to deer and other bothersome pests, a bag of daffodil bulbs can explode over a landscape in just a few seasons.
Naturalizing daffodils refers to the act of planting them in natural landscapes to be left undisturbed for a number of years. When choosing which bulbs to buy and plant, it’s good to remember that in the world of flower bulbs, bigger really is better. Look for firm, sizable bulbs with no mushy spots.
Spend time researching different cultivars carefully before choosing what type of bulb to put in the soil. Some newer selections are more finicky and not well suited to naturalization. Different types thrive in different planting regions. As a rule, narcissus bulbs work well with daffodils, or on their own, in a naturalized setting.
Daffodils thrive in any area with good drainage, so they respond well when planted on hills or other slight inclines that connect to large open spaces. Soil that stays swampy after a rain will cause the bulbs to mold and rot.
The edge of a bank of trees is a great location as long as it gets at least half a day of sun. Like tulips, narcissus and most other bulbs, daffodils like as much sun as they can get, but they will still bloom large and long after spending a bit of time in the shade. Bulbs don’t need to be fertilized for the first season, but if they are staying in the ground for years, a slow release fertilizer should be applied to the area each year.
Once a location has been chosen, grab a handful of daffodil bulbs, throw them in the air and plant them where they land. This method can be used until the entire space has been covered. Daffodils that are to be naturalized and left undisturbed should be planted 6 to 8 inches deep and approximately 6 inches apart.
Getting the bulbs into the ground is the most labor-intensive part of the operation. Special tools are available to dig holes for them. A spade or post-hole digger is also effective. Make certain the soil at the bottom of the hole is loose, as this encourages the root system to spread out. Bulbs should be placed in the hole with the pointed end up before covering them back up with dirt.
Sources:
American Daffodil Society
American Meadows
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