If a gardener can grow roses in her particular location, she can grow climbing and rambling roses in trees, shrubs and even evergreens. Evergreens and roses are a perfect fit. Together, a striking scene is created as the roses spill out from the green background. And evergreens offer the rose canes a little winter protection from harsh drying winds.
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Climbing roses are really just roses that send out very long canes. They aren’t natural climbers – no tendrils to wrap around trellises and no suckers to cling to walls. Roses known as climbing roses need to be tied to a structure in order to keep their canes vertical and to stop them from blowing about with every strong gust of wind.
With trees as a structure, the rose will continue to grow vertically by resting against the tree’s branches – perfect for very big roses. Large ramblers and climbers planted at the tree’s base will eventually offer a stunning display in the upper canopy often spilling out of the tree like a waterfall. If planted at the back of the garden, within a few short years, the gardener will have a forest of roses.
The first thing to consider is the rose itself and a little research will be necessary to find a climbing rose or rambler that will grow in the gardener’s space. It’s also important to consider only roses that can manage quite nicely without pruning.
In northern climates, a good rose to consider is the Explorer rose, William Baffin. It isn’t huge, but it can grow to about 12 feet or more. With its bright pink flowers, it’s a good rose to grow beside a cherry tree or flowering crab. This rose will give the gardener a second show of color long after the trees have finished flowering. William Baffin is a repeat-bloomer and very hardy.
Gardeners in Zone 6 or higher could consider Rambling Rector. It has Rosa Multiflora parentage and will grow to over 30 feet in some gardens. Other large roses worth considering in higher garden zones are Paul’s Himalyan Musk, Bobby James, Kiftsgate and species roses might include R. Multiflora itself and R. Longicupis. The more vigorous varieties should only be planted beside very tall trees. Smaller ramblers and climbers work best in the orchard.
There are two schools of thought on where to place the rose the gardener wants to coax into the tree canopy. Roses require at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight every day. They are also heavy feeders and heavy drinkers. But so are trees. If planted too closely there will always be competition for water and nutrients. With some trees, however, it’s possible to plant the rose close enough to avoid the tree’s feeder roots.
As for light, if the east side of the tree is not open to the sun, dappled sunlight will also work. The rose will quickly rise to the upper canopy seeking out stronger light.
If planting beside the tree, the gardener may want to tie the rose in until it reaches past the first set of tree branches and begins sending out side canes that will keep it in place. At this point the ties can be removed.
The other option is to plant the rose at the drip line of the tree. It’s more open and the rose will get the nourishment and sunlight it needs. A wire strung from the ground to the lower branches of the tree will act as a guide for the rose until it’s well-established in the tree.
Roses grown in trees will need an annual mulching of manure or compost and they must be watered more often than a rose planted in borders and flower beds. Once the rose reaches the upper canopy, it’s on its own. Gardeners should be prepared to let the rose do as it pleases. Every few years, a good cutting back will rejuvenate the rose.
A root barrier dug into the ground before the rose is planted will keep the feeder roots of the tree from stealing all the water and nourishment in the soil. This barrier can be of wood, metal or concrete. A root barrier is really just an edging material, but it has to be deeper as well as wider than the rose roots. This barrier will also keep the mulches and composted manure meant for the rose in place.
References
Online
Climbing Roses
Botanica, Botanica’s Roses, Whitecap Books, 2001
Graham Stuart Thomas, The Old Shrub Roses, Phoenix House, 1963
John Scarman, Gardening with Old Roses, Harper Collins, 1996
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