How to Grow Blueberries

Blueberry plants are easy to grow even in northern climates by choosing hardy cultivar varieties. Despite the recent news of the blueberry shock virus found in Michigan, growing blueberries in a kitchen garden is still an economical way to get fresh fruit into the diet.

Blueberry plants are native throughout North America, well known as a cash crop in the Pacific Northwest and Michigan but also grown everywhere in many backyard gardens. For northern gardeners choosing varieties that have been developed to withstand very cold winters and late springs is key to success.

Blueberries are simple to grow, require some space but can be planted in containers or the ground, and provide antioxidants called anthocyanins that help with memory as we get older while aiding the digestive system.

The blueberry also provides year-round interest in the garden. Spring brings on dark green leaves while summer showcases balls of blue sweetness. The fall brings colors of yellow and red to the leaves depending on the variety and winter provides textural interest to any garden while disguising what spring will showcase again.

These plants are very easy to grow, and they thrive in many different environments, including sunny yards and natural alpine areas. Those who have a boggy or wetland garden will be delighted to learn that blueberries naturally love to have wet roots, and these plants thrive in the bog garden.

Despite being easy to growth there are a few rules which must be followed to keep plants healthy and a few more which will ensure an abundant crop.

The basic steps below will help even the novice gardener create a successful blueberry patch. But keep in mind fruit production takes time and patience will be rewarded with the sweetness of the first berry.

The Health Benefits of Blueberries

Blueberries contain 14 mg of Vitamin C and 0.8 mg of Vitamin E per 1 cup of blueberries. In addition, blueberries contain anthocyanins and phenolics that also act as antioxidants.

Based on data from the USDA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging (Boston, MA), blueberries are among the fruits with the highest antioxidant activity.

Using a test called ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity), researchers have shown that a serving of fresh blueberries provides more antioxidant activity than many other fresh fruits and vegetables.

Scientists have discovered many health benefits of eating blueberries. They are one of the richest sources of antioxidants of the fruits and vegetables that have been studied. Antioxidants are responsible in part for keeping us healthy and young. They help fight cell-damaging “free radicals”.

Free radicals are unstable substances that our bodies produce as we get older. They damage human cells and our DNA. US scientists have shown that the antioxidants contained in Blueberries help to slow the aging process, reduce the risk of cancer, and decrease the growth of cervical and breast cancer cells by a considerable percentage.

Best Varieties of Blueberries to Grow in Your Garden

There are many types of blueberry varieties to choose from, so the decision should be based mainly on climate and space. One blueberry variety called Tophat not only produces delicious berries but also stays low to the ground, so it can double as a border in flower gardens. For those without a lot of space who would prefer vertical growth rather than horizontal growth, choose Bluetta, Collins, or Rabbiteye varieties.

The most commonly grown varieties of blueberry plants in North America are two native species and one hybrid species that are: Northern Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum); Southern Highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrids); and Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei).

Your climate and hardiness zone will determine which species is best for your garden. Let’s take a closer look at each one to determine which is best for you.

Rabbiteye Varieties: Native to the southern areas of the United States, Rabbiteyes lengthen out the picking season into August. At least two varieties are needed for cross-pollination. Zones 7-10. Varieties include Powder Blue, Tifblue, Climax, and Premier.

Southern Highbush: A cross of Northern Highbush with Rabbiteye. They will withstand lower winter temperatures and high summer heat. This group can self-pollinate, but planting at least two varieties for cross-pollination will produce a larger, better crop. Zones 6-10. Varieties include Misty, O’Neal, Ozarkblue, and Star.

Northern Highbush: For northern climates. Cannot tolerate hot, humid summers. These shrubs are self-pollinating but again will set a larger, better crop when two varieties are planted. Zones 4-7a. Varieties include Bluecrop, Blueray, Jersey, and Patriot.

In short, blueberries come in 3 types which are divided into highbush, rabbiteye, and southern highbush. These are then broken down into varieties.

Gardeners who live in cold climates should choose a hardy blueberry variety such as Elliott, Herbert, Berkeley, Bluecrop, and Collins. Those who live in warmer climates can choose virtually any blueberry variety and have confidence that it will thrive.

Choosing a variety should be based on how cold the region gets, the amount produced, and when fruit can be harvested. But taking all this into consideration 2 varieties must be selected to get blueberries to fruit.

How to Grow Half Highbush Blueberry Plants

Half highbush cultivars are hybrids propagated from highbush blueberry and wild lowbush native blueberry plants. Half highbush blueberry plants tolerate very cold climates, grow compact, and stay short. The blueberry fruit retains the wild flavor and very vivid orange-red autumn color, an added value in the kitchen garden.

The botanical name for lowbush blueberry is Vaccinium angustifolium and for highbush blueberry is Vaccinium corymbosum. This sampling of blueberry plants offers ideas for northern gardeners as well as those with small garden spaces:

• V. ‘Dwarf Northsky’ was developed at the University of Minnesota, is hardy zones 3 – 7 and grows 10″ – 18″ tall.

• V. ‘Dwarf Northblue’ also hybridized at the University of Minnesota and similarly cold tolerant, this plant produces dark blue fruit on a plant that gets 20″ – 30″ tall.

• V. ‘Northland’ was developed at Michigan State University. This is a large plant growing 3′ – 4′ with flowers proven to tolerate light spring frosts.

• V. ‘Top Hat’ is the quintessential container blueberry plant growing 11/2′ tall and wide. The plant has dark bluish-green foliage that turns bright reddish-orange in fall.

Although blueberry plants are somewhat self-pollinating, gardeners will have much more fruit to harvest by planting at least two plants of different cultivars. Northern gardeners should plan winter protection strategies for blueberry plants grown in containers.

Selecting and Preparing a Planting Site

Blueberries need the partial sun to shade so planning garden location is important. Choose a site with adequate sunlight and protection from strong winds.

Heavy clay soils should be avoided, but may be made more suitable for blueberries by adding organic matter such as compost, rotted or aged manure, and/or rotted leaves.

Exposed areas that are prone to early frosts can reduce yields because blueberries bloom early and are subject to early freezes that may kill the blooms.

Three months before plants are going to be placed in the ground have the soil tested for soil pH, lime index, nutrient status, and organic matter. Follow the recommendations of your soil test results.

Unlike many other garden crops, blueberries require relatively acidic soil for good growth. They must be planted in acidic or ericaceous soil; the plants are native to the peat and bog landscapes of North America and so whilst fully hardy will not tolerate lime or alkaline soil types.

Blueberries like a soil pH of 4-4.5 with an organic matter reading 4 to 7% or more. The local county extension agent can help with taking the test and sending it off. Once the results have returned soil remediation can occur.

If soil pH is too high granular sulfur can be mixed with organic material throughout the top 4-inches. Let this mixture sit for 3 months and retest for soil pH, lime index, nutrient status, and organic matter. If the numbers are not right add additional sulfur and fertilizer.

Testing Soil pH at Home

Since blueberry plants prefer acid environments, soil testing is the first step to choosing a planting location. Purchase a soil test kit at a garden supply store and insert soil from the planting area into the provided tube.

Fill the remainder of the tube with water and the pH powder from the kit. Shake the tube and compare the watercolor to the chart in the kit to determine the pH level. The ideal pH level for blueberries is slightly acidic, between 4.8- 5.3.

If the soil is not acidic enough for the blueberry plants, spread a soil acidifier over the ground around the planting space. If the soil is already acidic, skip this step and go right to planting the bushes.

Growing Blueberry Plants in a Container

If living in an area with alkaline soil and the garden space is a problem then fortunately blueberries are an ideal candidate for growing in a pot. Planting blueberries in a container follows the same process as above. The gardener should choose a large receptacle and fill it with an ericaceous peat-based soil.

The soil will need to be created using equal parts of compost, potting soil, peat moss, and granular sulfur. Have homemade soils tested for soil pH, lime index, nutrient status, and organic matter 3 months before planting blueberries and supplement as indicated by a soil test.

A tray should be used to collect run-off water which will aid moisture retention in the soil. If growing in a container then daily watering may be necessary during summer months when there is little rainfall. In cold climates, the container will have to be brought in so the soil does not freeze.

Planting Blueberry Plants

The best time to place blueberry plants in the ground is in spring. Choose an outdoor location that has moist, sandy soil and receives at least five hours of sunlight per day.

Planting blueberries require digging a hole. Dig a hole that is two times as wide and deep as the root ball (about 18 inches deep and 18 inches wide) of the blueberry bush. Mix 1 cubic foot peat moss with topsoil. Pour 3 to 4 inches of compost into the bottom of the hole (up to 4-inches from the top) to provide additional nutrients for the bush.

Then place the blueberry plant’s root ball in the hole. When inserting the blueberry bush, place it 1 inch lower in the ground than it sat in the nursery pot. Mix another 1/2 cup of soil acidifier into the soil that was removed from the hole and then fill to ground level and gently push down on soil and water in as needed.

Form a mound of soil around the hole to form a water basin. Then apply a 4-inch layer of mulch consisting of sawdust or wood chips from untreated wood. This will control weeds and help keep the soil pH at around 4-4.5.

Water the newly planted blueberry bushes well until the ground is wet to a 3-inch depth. Blueberries may have to be watered depending on the climate and time of year.

How to Water Blueberry Plants

Blueberry plants appreciate consistently wet soil; not only will large amounts of water aid plant growth, in addition, but this will also help the formation of large succulent fruits.

Avoid low areas with poor drainage; blueberries prefer a well-drained, sandy loam soil, rich in organic matter. Where additional watering is required it is recommended that rainwater is used as this will reduce both chemicals and lime reaching the plant if living in a hard water area.

Growing Blueberries in the Bog Garden

Blueberries love acidic soil with a pH of between 4 and 5. This is more acidic than is required for other plants. An acidic and peaty bog or forest soil is ideal for blueberries. However, the area does need to be drained well enough so that the water does not pool at the base of the blueberries.

To increase the acidity of boggy soil, add sawdust, wood chips, moss, or rotting leaves to the soil. Some even place a rotting log under wet soil to provide the moisture that blueberries love and to increase the acidity of the soil.

Watering Blueberries in the Bog Garden

Blueberry plants are sensitive to compacted soil. In a very damp area, add acidic compost or bark mulch to the soil to increase the humus and improve the drainage. If the bog is prone to drying out in the summer, a thin layer of mulch over the blueberry plants’ roots will help protect blueberries from the summer heat.

Increasing the Yield of a Blueberry Plant

There are a number of elements to consider which will aid a blueberry plant to maximize its fruiting potential. The first consideration should be to consider the number of bushes planted.

Ideally, the gardener will be able to plant three varieties which will aid fruit production in a number of ways. Firstly by planting multiple varieties, the fruiting season will be extended overall as some shrubs fruit early in the season whilst others wait until later in the season. Secondly, cross-pollination of varieties tends to give a higher yield than were just a single variety is planted.

In order to increase long term fruit yields a certain amount of pruning may be beneficial. To prune a blueberry remove old and diseased canes at the start of the season. The pruning of old canes should take place to ground level, a clean-cut should be made using heavy-duty secateurs or a lopper. One should however be careful not to over prune as fruiting occurs not on fresh growth but on that of the previous year’s wood.

How Many Blueberry Bushes?

Blueberry bushes do self-pollinate but plant more than one bush for optimal crop production. There are many different kinds of blueberry bushes, so if there is space, choose a variety of bushes to increase the blueberry yield throughout the summer and into the fall. Some blueberries produce small, sweet berries, while others like the Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbs) produce the larger berries that are commonly found in grocery stores.

Protect the Blueberry Plants

Blueberries take 3 years before they start to fruit so patience is a virtue with this plant. But once they start to fruit they will need to be protected from several pests and diseases.

Spread a 6-inch deep layer of organic mulch around the base of the blueberry plant in a circular pattern. This will help to retain moisture in summer, as well as protect the plant from the cold winter temperatures. Use only organic mulch if the blueberries will be eaten since many landscape mulches contain dyes and chemicals.

Whilst blueberries are a nice treat for the tending gardener, the competition will be fierce from birds and other berry eating creatures. In order to protect efforts erect deer netting, fencing, or fruit cages around the blueberry bushes to keep out deer, rabbits, and dogs. may present the best solution to protecting fruit without resorting to more drastic measures.

To protect from birds, plastic owls, snakes, aluminum pie pans, and wind chimes can be placed near blueberries, but these items have to be moved often to be effective. Another choice is bird netting. This netting is simply draped over plants until fruit is harvested.

Other pests such as ants and greenflies may be harder to prevent especially if chemicals are not to be resorted to.

Of all the different types of edible plants, you can grow in your yard, blueberries are among the easiest and carefree because they are not plagued by the insects and diseases that attack other types of fruiting plants. You can expect your plants to begin giving you large crops within 3 to 4 years of planting. Use them in fruit smoothies, pancakes, fruit salad, on cereal, and store extras in freezer bags.

Blueberry plants are perennials and they will grow back year after year. In fact, fruit production will increase as the plant grows older. Planting blueberry plants is a great way to improve the landscape and get edible food at the same time.

Blueberry Shock Virus

Blueberry shock virus is a viral plant disease that does not affect food safety, however; it can cause major fruit loss. The virus damages foliage and flowers thereby reducing the number of blueberries harvested. The infected plants can damage neighboring blueberry crops because pollinating insects spread the virus.

Although the blueberry shock virus has been seen in the Pacific Northwest for many years, it is thought that Michigan’s colder climate may further stress the blueberry plant crop. Blueberry shock virus and blueberry scorch disease have similar symptoms and plague the health of plants and crop yields.

Home gardeners can provide fresh blueberries despite plant issues found at university research sites. Northern gardeners will have better harvests by purchasing cold-hardy virus-tested blueberry plants from the start. The blueberry plant is another container kitchen garden idea as well.

Bottom Line

Blueberry bushes grow well in most parts of the United States and are frequently found growing wild. Planting blueberry bushes is rewarding since they require very little maintenance and will regrow each year producing berries in the summer.

The blueberry bush is a delightful plant to grow and a delicious berry to eat. It’s healthy, and the plants are sturdy and will last for decades when they find a place where they like to grow. Planting blueberries in the edible bog garden is a natural way to add food plants to the wetland garden.