Terrariums have been popular since Victorian times. Here’s a quick guide to setting up and enjoying these lovely mini gardens.
Terrariums are a fun and decorative way to bring the garden inside, and because of their enclosed design, they allow plants to thrive that would not normally do well indoors due to their need for high humidity.
Once plants are placed into a terrarium a mini climate is formed. The moisture released by their leaves condenses on the glass sides and makes its way back down into the soil. This “rain” allows a terrarium to go long periods of time without watering.
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When you make a terrarium you are practicing a craft that dates back to the ancient Greeks. Researchers say that the Greeks created the first terrariums around 2500 years ago.
Modern-day terrariums evolved from the work of Dr. Ward in London England. Dr. Ward was studying butterflies and had buried a chrysalis in the soil of an enclosed container so he could observe the hatching process.
During the waiting period, he noticed a fern and grass start to grow. Out of curiosity, he allowed this container to remain sealed for 4 years. Water did not need to be replaced since it recycled within the container.
Ward experimented with other plants and wrote On the Growth of Plants in Closely Glazed Cases in 1842. This study led to the development of Wardian Cases which are the ancestors of today’s terrariums. These cases were popular for use both in homes and as a way for botanists to send collected plants from their explorations back to their homeland.
In the United States, housewives in New England planted Partridge berry in hand-blown glass bowls. These were popular household items.
A terrarium is a transparent glass or plastic container with a closed top used for growing plants. Today we have expanded the definition to include open containers. These are quite popular as gift items. These two sites show very decorative modern terrariums. These are rather costly. However, many other containers can be adapted for the purpose.
The type of soil you need for your terrarium is directly related to the plants you choose. If you are using tropical plants (green foliage) that grow in the rainforest you’ll need a different soil than you would use for desert-dwelling plants. You may either purchase or make your own soil mixture.
I recommend going to the garden center and purchasing soil designated suitable for African Violets. It will be rich in organic matter and will be peat-based with perlite or vermiculite added to increase drainage.
Some brands have even added fertilizer–read your labels carefully to find out how soon you will need to begin a fertilization program. This soil will have been sterilized by the manufacturer. I’ve learned to always supplement the perlite or vermiculite already in the packaged mix. The mixtures are usually too heavy for good drainage.
If you prefer, make your own mixture by combining 1 part peat (shredded) and 1 part garden loam (black). You will have to sterilize it by heating it to an internal temperature of 200 degrees F. I’ve been told it smells rather unpleasant which is one reason I prefer to just purchase my soil mixture.
Once I have the basic mix, I can add to it depending on what plants I am using. When dealing with succulents (cactus, Sansevierias, Euphorbias, etc.), I always add at least 1/3 more vermiculite. I don’t care for the appearance of the perlite which tends to float to the top when the plant is watered. If I happen to have crushed granite (used by poultry breeders), I add that to the succulent mixture and use it to mulch the container. I leave it out for tropical plants.
To properly set up a terrarium, several crucial tools are needed, such as coarse sand or pebbles, activated charcoal, sphagnum moss, potting soil, leaf mold, a fork, teaspoon, pair of scissors, the plants, and if a container with a narrow mouth is being used, two pencils or chopsticks.
You may also need bamboo sticks, tongs, scissors, a spray bottle filled with lukewarm water, decorative rocks or gravel, ceramic figures or any other decorative item you wish to use. I’ve used teaspoons to dig holes.
You will also need horticultural charcoal. Don’t try to use the charcoal used in outdoor grills–it is a different quality.
You’ll have to decide what type of terrarium you are making–open or closed? If you choose a closed type terrarium, go to a hardware store that has plexiglass and have a piece cut to fit the top of your container–be sure to leave a little hanging over the edge so it stays on.
If your container is rounded, you may have to use something like plastic wrap with a rubber band holding it in place. Closed terrariums are most suitable for those plants needing a high humidity level.
Once you make the decision about the container, you may move on to deciding on plants. Please don’t combine a plant that prefers “high” or “bright” lights with one preferring low lights. No matter where you place the terrarium, at least 1 plant will perform poorly because you are not meeting its basic needs.
The plants that do best in terrariums are compact and slow-growing. Some excellent ones include Bird’s Nest Sanseviera, Maidenhair Fern, African Violets, Baby Tears, Creeping Fig, Panda Plant, Asparagus Fern and more. When selecting plants it’s crucial that they all have similar growing requirements.
Great plants for terrariums:
The type of plant you need is partially determined by the type of lighting you can provide either from windows or with artificial lights.
First, study your container. Does it have an obvious front and back? If so, this will determine where you locate your plants. If it doesn’t, you will select a side to serve as your “back”.
Terrariums can be made from old fish tanks and bowls, jars, bottles, and even large glasses such as brandy sniffers. Several garden and gift retailers sell decorative glass terrariums as well.
Second, determine the arrangements of the plants within the container. If it has a large top opening, this is easy because you can simply move the small pots of plants around until you like the arrangement. If the opening is narrow, you may have to settle for planning it out in your mind.
Third, begin filling the terrarium with your drainage and potting media. Lay down a layer about 1/2″ thick of pea gravel or aquarium gravel. This provides drainage.
Now, put down about 1/4″ of horticultural charcoal which keeps the soil from developing a sour smell. Next comes the layer of your chosen soil mix.
If it doesn’t appear too out of proportion, use about 3″ of soil. This should be enough for most fibrous-rooted plants. Slope the soil from the back towards the front–I often have a 1 1/2″ difference between the level of the back soil and the front soil.
However, if your terrarium is round, you may choose to simply have a level planting surface. It is difficult to tell you exactly what to do because so much depends on the shape of your terrarium and the height of your plants.
Fourth, plant your terrarium. Use a spoon to scoop out the potting holes. The plant should be situated so the base of it is level with the top of your soil. Don’t allow the plant’s base to be above the level of your soil. Follow the same procedure with each plant.
If you have used a container with a narrow opening, you have to be creative to get your plants into the terrarium. If you are coordinated, chopsticks may be used to gently lower the plant into the opening. Wrapping it with a piece of paper will protect it from damage during this process and make it easier to slide it into the container.
Fifth, mulch the surface of the soil. You may choose to use a “living mulch” such as Baby tears or some other mat-forming plant. Crushed stone or aquarium stone (in various colors) or even chopped bark make good mulches. Keep the size of the mulch pieces in proportion to the size of your terrarium.
Sixth, add any decorative items such as ceramic or plastic animals or rocks that you wish to use. Let your imagination run wild here–you can create tiny scenes in your terrarium.
Seventh, carefully water your new terrarium. Be very careful not to saturate the soil if the terrarium will be covered. You don’t want your terrarium to mold or rot because of too much moisture.
If you observe an excessive amount of condensation on the sides of a closed terrarium, lift the cover for a day to allow some of the moisture to evaporate. Of course, with an open terrarium, you’ll have to test the soil for dampness and water as necessary.
No fertilizer is needed, but the terrarium should be checked regularly so that any diseased plants or insect infestation can be caught quickly. Remove any plants that are dying or have become overgrown.
Give terrariums a try. They are a great way to bring a little bit of the garden indoors!
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