How and When to Prune Climbing Clematis Plants

One of the most popular garden plants, and sometimes called “the Queen of Climbers”, clematis are glorious climbing shrubs which can produce sensational effects whether trained over a garden trellis or pergola, planted to scramble up a tree, or grown as patio plants.

Growing clematis is generally quite easy; most varieties are fully hardy and will tolerate both sun and shade. Also, although some gardeners make a bit of a mystery of how to prune them, the plants will generally accept quite heavy pruning at almost any time of year without ill effects. However, to give the best results, it’s best to prune clematis differently according to variety and flowering season, always making pruning cuts just above a joint to encourage fresh buds. Pruning guidelines for a selection of the more popular clematis varieties are given below.

First Year Pruning

All clematis benefit from heavy pruning in their first year to encourage strong root growth and a good branching habit. Cut them right down to a joint with good buds about 6-9″ from the ground. Do this either on first planting your clematis, or immediately after flowering for Category 1 varieties below, or in the following February/ March for all other varieties.

Hard pruning like this can be repeated at any stage in later years to revive a tired plant or encourage more vigorous growth.

Category 1 – Tidy After Flowering

The majority of varieties fall into this category. A light trim to encourage branching, or simply tidying up unwanted growth is all that is necessary. Tall growing varieties in this group, where access for pruning is difficult, can largely be left to their own devices unless they get out of control.

Varieties include:

• Clematis alpina.
• Clematis cirrhosa.
• Clematis macropetala.
• Clematis montana.
• Evergreen clematis.
• Popular cultivars such as Frances Rivis, Freckles, montana Elizabeth, Freda and Grandiflora, Markham’s Pink, Wisley Cream, Winter Beauty and napaulensis.

Category 2 – Light Prune In February or March

Shorten tips to a joint with good strong buds, tidy up any unwanted growth, cut out any dead wood, and cut back weak shoots hard.

This category includes:

• All the early large flowered hybrid clematis ( although some also fall into Category 4).
• Popular varieties such as Beauty of Worcester, Dr Ruppel, Jackmaniii rubra, Miss Bateman, Nelly Moser, Piilu and The President..

Category 3 – Hard Prune In February Or March

Cut back all growth to a good strong leaf joint 1 or 2 feet above the ground.

Varieties include:

• Clematis Florida.
• Clematis Integrifolia.
• Clematis Tangutica.
• The late large flowered hybrids, though some can be treated as Category 4.
• Popular cultivars such as Angelique, x Durandii, Florida sieboldii, Gypsy Queen, Hagley Hybrid, Parisienne, Petit Faucon, Rooguchi, tangutica Bill Mackenzie, texensis Etoile Rose, Gravetye Beauty and Princess Diana, tibetana Orange peel, and viticella Etoile Violette and Polish Spirit.

Category 4 – Optional Pruning

You can vary the flowering season for some clematis varieties by changing the pruning technique; with light pruning as for Category 2, they’ll bloom at the normal time, whereas with hard pruning as for Category 3, they’ll flower around 2 months later.

Varieties include Clematis Barbara, Carnaby, Ernest Markham, Henryi, Marie Boisselot, Monte Cassino and Niobe.

Pruning For Clematis Wilt

The only significant disease affecting clematis is clematis wilt, which causes the stems to rot. Provide the plant has been correctly planted, with the top of the root ball 3-4 inches below the surface of the soil, it need not be fatal. Simple cut the plant right back to ground level, remove and burn affected tissue, and water the surrounding soil with a fungicide. New, healthy shoots will normally appear from below the soil.

More Information about Clematis

Clematis varieties for year round flower.

Clematis varieties for special conditions and uses.

Clematis cultivation and care.

Specialist clematis growers.