Forcing Amaryllis Blooms

They’re dramatic. The large bulbs four to six inches in diameter look for all the world like large onions.

But plant them in a pot and give them a little TLC and they will reward you with massive and gorgeous blooms for weeks.

Having planted them in soil or pebbles with only the nose peeking out, give them a little drink (but not too much) put them in a cool, dark spot and wait a few days.

When the green amaryllis blade begins to peek out from the bulb, put it in a spot with a lot of light. Water, but be careful not to give it too much.

Soon the plant will send up a flower stalk. The stalk grows and may reach two feet or more. One to four striking flowers will bloom from each stalk.

Once the amaryllis blooms fade and wilt, leaf blades will emerge. Cut off the stalk but leave the blades. The blades produce food for the bulb to reflower next year. Just let the blades continue to grow. When it gets warm outside, put the bulbs out (in their containers).

Continue feeding and watering the plant. In the fall, the amaryllis leaves will begin to wilt and yellow. When this occurs, cut the leaves off and place the bulbs (pot and all) in a dark dry place until you are ready to force them again.

The name ‚”amaryllis” is derived from the Greek word Amarullis, which was the name of a beautiful fictional shepherdess.

The amaryllis (Hippeastrum sp.) is a favorite among gardeners. The plant sports two or more large, trumpet-shaped flowers on two to three foot stalks.

Various species and cultivars sport a tremendous variety of colors and types. There are single and double flowers available in really bold colors of red, bright pink and orange. Other amaryllis plants produce more subtle, but equally striking colors, such as shades of pink, rose and salmon. They also come in pure white.

The leaves are shaped like straps, and about 1-2 inches wide and about a foot and a half long. Frost will kill the foliage, but not the plant. Hard freezes will kill the bulb, so in areas zone 7 or lower should not overwinter amaryllis outdoors.

Amaryllis has a really dramatic impact on the landscape. Grow it in clumps or ‚”drifts” for the best effect. They can also make a great foundation planting when used against darker green shrubs .

In warmer areas, many gardeners like to force their bulbs the first year, and then plant them in the garden. Although they won’t bloom again that year, they should bloom next year.

Plant amaryllis bulbs between September and January in areas where the ground doesn’t freeze for spring blooms. They do best in acidic soil and in dappled sunlight or light shade. A great place for amaryllis is in garden islands under pine trees. Deep shade will cause the plants to be thin and spindly.

Amaryllis needs well-drained soils. In this area, use raised beds for better drainage. Plant the bulbs a foot to a foot and a half apart. Keep the ‚”neck” or the ‚”nose’ of the bulb sticking out of the ground.

If conditions are right, and they are cared for properly, amaryllis will bloom for many years. For best success in blooming, dig the bulbs, separate them, and replant each year. This will encourage the plants to bloom larger and have healthier, more evenly-shaped flowers. Additionally, digging and replanting amaryllis every year will give the gardener an opportunity to check the quality of the bulbs, and throw away unhealthy ones, remove the little bulblets, and amend the beds if necessary.

Remember to mulch the beds. Two inches should be enough. For best results, apply a light organic compost dressing two or three times a year between March and September.

After flowering, remove dead blooms. This will prevent seeds from being produced. It will also encourage blooming the following season. Flowering will be significantly reduced the following year if the plant is allowed to seed. This will also keep your amaryllis ‚”drifts” pleasing to the eye and may help reduce disease problems.