Categories: Blog

Desert Climates and Vegetables

Understanding the climate of your specific area is important when attempting to grow vegetables in the desert.

El Paso, Texas is in the Chihuahuan Desert. So is Albuquerque, New Mexico. But in El Paso the last frost date is March 26, while Albuquerque’s is April 13.

That means if you want to put tomato plants out in your garden, it’s okay to do so after March 26 in El Paso. But in Albuquerque, you need to wait until after April 13. (Just 50 miles north of Albuquerque, the last frost date is May 15, and tender plants put in the ground outside before that date are put at risk).

First frost date in El Paso is November 14, but the first frost date for Albuquerque is October 28.

El Paso’s growing season is approximately 250 days. Albuquerque’s is about 160 days.

The same situation exists in other desert regions, such as the Sonoran Desert, the Mojave and elsewhere.

Plants that need long growing seasons, like okra and watermelon, have trouble growing in some northern areas or regions that are higher in elevation, while cooler weather plants such as kale will not do well in El Paso’s summer heat.

There is also another phenomenon, called microclimate, that may exist within several miles of each other. These microclimates can lengthen or shorten growing seasons by almost a month.

Microclimates are caused by a number of conditions, all acting in unison to create them. Things such as elevation differences, exposure to sun (or lack of it), exposure to wind, types of soil and even how air moves can create microclimates.

In general however, higher elevations have shorter growing seasons. But cold air is heavier than warm air. So valleys that may seem protected from winter winds can be affected by cold air moving from surrounding mountains and settling in the lower regions of the valleys.

If your garden area has a southern exposure, it will warm up more quickly than one with a northern exposure, especially in early spring.

However, you can use microclimates to your advantage. If you live in an area that has shorter growing seasons, plant watermelons behind a southern-facing wall. During the day, the average temperature will increase around the vines. Additionally, the wall will absorb heat during the day and radiate it back out during cooler nights.

And let’s say you live in a warmer area of the desert, planting lettuce or kale on the north side of your house, preferably in the shade, will extend the growing season for the plant. Additionally, if the plant is cooler and shaded, its respiration will decrease. Respiration depletes sugar levels, so by reducing respiration, sugar levels will be higher in the plant.

Raised beds warm up quicker than level beds. If you build raised beds on the south side of your home, and run rows east and west, you can maximize effects of the sun and heat.

You can also reduce or raise soil temperatures by using mulch. Using organic mulch like dry bluegrass or cut fescue about an inch deep will help cool the soil. Straw that is free of weeds or weed seeds also works well to cool the soil.

Synthetic clear plastic mulches help warm the soil and can really help with the growing of tomatoes and melons. Clay pots, plastic juice or soda bottles can be put over transplanted seedlings and even planted seeds during early spring. This will help quicken seed germination and early growth.

You can obtain specific information on your county, town or area’s growing season, first and last frost dates, and other climate information, as well as suitable vegetables from your Cooperative Extension Service or your Master Gardeners’ Association.